Crete is a hugely popular island for holidaymakers. Over 20% of all flights in Greece go there every year – and with good reason! Crete has something for everyone and if you get away from the main towns, there are still traditional areas to delight in.
You can choose from large hotels with all the ameneties that you would expect, stay in family run apartments or even camp. You can travel there by flying to Heraklion or Chania or by ferry to Heraklion, Chania, Rethimno or Agios Nikolaos.
Let’s take a look at why Crete is so popular.
Quick Facts about Crete
- It’s the largest of the Greek Island and the fifth largest in the Mediterranean.
- Crete was the centre of the oldest Greek Civilization, the Minoans, who lived there from 2,600 BC to 1,400 BC. A visit to the Minoan sitesof Knossos and Phaistos are essential but wear a large hat in high summer as it gets unbearably hot there!
- Crete has its’ own dialect and music but people who live there (Cretans) call themselves Greek.
- For hundreds of years, Crete was called Candia. This was its’ Italian name which came from ‘Chandax’ – the medieval name for the Capital of the island, Heraklion.
- The highest mountain on Crete is Mt. Psiloreitis at 8,058ft / 2,456 metres.
- In 1934, the internationally known signer Nana Mouskouri was born there.
A brief history
This would be worth a book in itself but here are some interesting – and unexpected – snippets!
The first humans on Crete were Neolithic and Knossos (later Minoan) was originally a Neolithic settlement. The Minoan civilization was the origin of much Greek Legend as told by Homer – with stories about King Minos, the Minotaur and Icarus.
Crete was taken over by Rome in 69 BC, then by Iberian Muslims, followed by the Byzantines and then the Venetians. During Venetian rule, the island had a period of Renaissance, with the painter El Greco as its’ brightest star. The Venetians were Catholic but there was also a huge influx of Jewish Armenians to the island. By 1627, around 7% of the population was Jewish. High taxes for non-Catholics were brought in to discourage further Jews from arriving but this ended when the Ottomans took over after keeping the capital – then called Candia – under siege for twenty one years!
When the Ottomans were in power, many monasteries and churches were changed into mosques but attendance at Catholic Church was still allowed. However, large numbers of people converted to Islam. These converts were viewed by the Christian people as Turks. At the time of the Greek War of Independence, up to 45% of the population was thought to be Muslim. Many converted back while others fled to Turkey and Rhodes. By 1911, 11% of people were still Muslim but they were made to leave Crete in 1924 as part of the ‘population exchange’ between Greece and Turkey.
Christian uprisings were frequent and were met with fierce opposition from the Ottomans, including the execution of Bishops. The Ottoman Sultan then gave Crete to Egypt but this rule didn’t last long and in 1840, it reverted to Ottoman rule. Crete finally became part of Greece in 1913.
During the Second World War, German paratroopers suffered nearly 7,000 casualties in the Battle of Crete which took place in 1941. The casualties were a result of fierce opposition from locals and the British and Allied foreces. After this, Hitler banned any more large airborne offensives.
The Land
Crete is not just an island of white beaches with turquoise seas. It is very mountainous with a huge range made up of three groups of mountains – the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), the Dikti and the Idi. Because of the mountains, Crete has many fertile plateaux which give rise to unexpected greenery in such an arid area. There are also caves and a famously deep and narrow Gorge – the Gorge of Samaria which narrows to a point where a person can stand with one hand on either side of it.
What’s the weather like?
Crete is in two climate zones – the Mediterranean and the North African, with most of it in the first category. This means that the weather is mostly temperate and can be humid as you go inland. The winters are mild and while snow does fall on the tops of mountains, it is extremely rare on low ground especially near the sea. However, there was a very rare cold spell in February 2004 which covered the entire island in snow! In the summer, the average temperature is in the high 20′s to low 30′s Celsius / mid 80′s to mid 90′s Fahrenheit. It can go as high as the mid 40′s / above 110 Fahrenheit so be sure to bring some very strong sun cream and always carry a bottle of water.
The south coast comes under the climate zone of North Africa so it can be substantially hotter there. Date palms are heavy with fruit and the swallows don’t bother to fly to Africa for the summer!
I’ve had a holiday on Crete and I’d love to live there!
You’re not alone – Crete’s balmy winter temperatures have led many people to buy a winter or holiday home there. If you live in an EU country, you’re in luck. EU citizens have the right to buy property on Crete and live there with the minimum of bureaucratic ‘red tape’. Some real estate companies cater solely to Europeans wishing to make the move.
Where to go…
Agia Gallini
A very pretty little resort built around a small harbour which has water front cafes and tavernas. It has restaurants, hotels and streets running up the hill behind the harbor. There are a few clubs for nightlife and as Agia Gallini is small, it can feel crowded in high season so if you want a peaceful holiday, go off peak.
Agios Nikolaos
‘Ag Nik’ as holiday makers call it, has an inlet from the sea which is reputedly bottomless. It’s a pleasant and tasteful town with many places to stay and great restaurants.
Chania
This is a beautiful place with a gorgeous Venetian harbor and many tavernas on the waterfront and well as great restaurants back in Chania. Shopping is fun in the narrow and picturesque streets and there are small museums to visit. It’s a good base to visit the Lefka Ori Mountains and the white sands of Elafonisos.
Elounda
A very up-market area with luxury resorts and hotels. As a result, these are well designed and attractive. The village itself has good restaurants and cafes on the seafront. The historic Spinalonga Island is nearby. The island was a leper colony, from 1903 to 1957 and the last inhabitant left in 1962. There were two entrances to Spinalonga – the lepers entrance was through a tunnel called Dante’s Gate. The lepers didn’t know what would happen to them when the arrived but they were treated kindly and given food, water, medical help and social security payments. Previously, the leprosy patients had hidden in the caves of the area, away from civilization.
Heraklion
Don’t miss Crete’s biggest city which has something for everyone. The shopping’s good with designer shops as well as hand made leather goods and crafts. Eating is good and there is also culture with the Archaeological museum and the museum of Natural History. The Minoan Palaceof Knossos is within easy reach. Just out of Heraklion there are great beaches at Malia and Hersonisos.
Hersonisos (also spelled Hersonissos)
Very much a party town with bars, clubs and beach parties that can go on long into the night. However, the luxury hotels in the area don’t get any noise! Despite the parties, this is a popular resort for families and there is a good bus service into Heraklion and to the eastern side of Crete.
This town on the south of the island is a good place to go for a taste of traditional Crete. Due to its distance from the airport, it isn’t full of tourists. It has a pretty waterfront and a lovely beach. There is a Venetian fortress at the harbour. This is an agricultural area with greenhouses dotted through the hills.
Kissamos (Kastelli)
A small place in a huge bay which has both sandy and pebble beaches. Visit the spectacular beaches at Falassarna and Balos which locals say are even better than the famed ‘tropical’ beach, Elafonisos. Judge for yourself as Elafonisos is nearby. There are important archaeological sites and ancient buildings which are worth visiting. Go east along the coast to Kolymbari to see the Odigitrias Monastery which has amazing icons and get out of the heat at the cool, stone built café at the end of the beach.
Like Hersonisos, this is a party town but it has one long main street which makes it harder to escape the nightclubs and bars. It’s worth a visit for the Palace – a significant archaeological site. There are many attractions for families and a good beach. There’s a good bus service to Heraklion and the east of the island.
A lovely place which makes it very popular. The sandy beach attracts both snorkelers and turtles! The old town has an ancient fortress, an old harbour, quaint historic streets, museums, churches and gardens. The food is good – in particular, the fresh fish. There is an annual carnval which is worth seeing. Take a trip into the nearby mountains to see Arkadi Monastery.
Sitia
Visit the fortress, walk on the long sandy beach, swim or windsurf on the crystal clear warm sea and enjoy the friendly atmosphere and the warm welcome from locals. A lovely town and well placed to visit other attractions.
Be prepared to fall in love
Crete is unique. Simply walk to a taverna on a warm night listening to the constant hum of the cicadas and enjoying the scents in the air..and begin your love affair with Greece.
Give it a try…you’ll be glad that you did!
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Wanda and Paula are friends and business partners that love to travel. We developed this website to share our experiences, what we've learned over the years and also to provide reviews on hotels, airlines, restaurants and anything else travel related.
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I have been in Crete the previous 2 years . I will certainly go again summer 2010 . If you travel to Greece don’t miss Crete .